Worn shocks and struts don't just make the ride bouncy — they add stopping distance and wear your tires unevenly. If the car nose-dives under braking, keeps bouncing after a bump, or you see oil on the strut body, it's time. We replace them in pairs with quick-strut assemblies where available, which means no spring compressor risk and a fresh mount and bearing.
Signs you need shocks & struts
- Bouncing after bumps
- Nose-dive when braking
- Clunking over rough roads
- Oil leaking on the shock or strut
- Cupped or scalloped tire wear
- More than 80,000 miles on the originals
What we do on site
- Bounce test and inspect for leaks, bushings, and mount wear
- Replace shocks or complete strut assemblies in pairs
- Inspect sway bar links and control arm bushings while there
- Torque to spec with the suspension loaded
- Recommend an alignment after strut replacement
Doing this in a driveway
Shocks and quick-struts are driveway work. After front struts you'll need an alignment at a shop, which we'll tell you up front.
Parts we use
Quick-strut assemblies or bare struts with mounts, rear shocks, sway bar links as needed.
Pricing: Moderate to significant depending on the vehicle; trucks and SUVs run more than compact cars. Every job is quoted in writing before we start, and there's no upsell — how our pricing works.
FAQ
Shocks & Struts: common questions
Do I need an alignment after struts?
Front struts, yes — the camber and toe change. Rear shocks on most vehicles don't affect alignment.
Should I replace all four?
Replace in pairs at minimum — both fronts or both rears. If all four are original and high-mileage, doing all four keeps the handling balanced.